Sunday, May 31, 2009

Strong Zero Lemon!!!

We're finally in Machida. I can't wait to have a fresh suitcase with nice dress clothes and ties tomorrow. I can FINALLY start to change what I wear and adapt to Tokyo style.

Anyway, today's been pretty stressful. I'm drinking a Strong Lemon Zero and eating Pocky. Not going to lie, it's not a great combo, but I'm kicking back and relaxing...*sigh*

Post again soon! Peace!


Photo: Me, Kenji, Sam with a group of Korean artists we met on the train coming back from Kyoto. Anybody wanna guess how old they are?

Kamakura

Saturday, May 30, 2009
10:20 PM JST
Matsuura-san’s Home, 大船

I wasn’t lying when I said I would write again! So take that. I decided to do two in one night, because there wasn’t much that happened between the time we left Osaka and now. Just lots of relaxation, and a lot of touring.

I have to admit, as cool as the entire Tokyo area is, Kansai definitely holds a special place in my heart. It was really amazing, the people were good looking, the food was delicious, and overall (sans the whole 外人 thing), everything was really fun. After being with a group of people CONSTATLY for a little over a week, I guess I’ve developed a bit of separation anxiety. I miss joking around with Sam, Loretta, and Kenji, and hitting the town on a nightly basis to see what kind of crazy things we’ll get ourselves into (Sam and Kenji even ran into Yakuza!).

Anyway, compared to that, these last few days have been pretty tame. The first day we arrived in the Kamakura area, we were in Ofuna. We spent the night at the Hotel Mets. We traveled ALL DAY again, coming from Osaka. It was pretty miserable, and pretty exhausting considering the weight of my ENORMOUS bags. I’m stupid for having brought this much SHIT on this trip. But, I’m lookin pretty good, so no regrets right? Actually, regrets galore. Compared to people in the cities here, I look like crap all the time. I don’t have any hair product on me, and I don’t have more than one pair of shoes, a jacket that isn’t really made for wearing out, and t-shirts. My fashion is weighing down my soul right now, as far as I’m concerned.

So when we arrived in Ofuna, Sam and I wanted to go out. Loretta was already gone with her host family, and so Chris and Nathan tagged along with us. We went to a chain izakaya, spent $80 on small orders and drinks, and came back and basically crashed. We wanted to take a break then head back out, but there really isn’t much here, and Sam and I were really beat. He talked a bit with his friend who is here from the Netherlands, and I watched Zorro in Japanese and Facebooked a bit. This signaled the death of the night.

Anyway, the next day my host father, Mr. Matsuura, gave everybody in the group a tour of the most famous temple in Kamakura. It was really cool to see, especially since his wife’s grandfather was samurai class and descends from the Genji family. WHOA right? They are really cool interesting people, and are really interested in the history of Kamakura, which I really respect. After the tour we returned to the hotel, and went off with our respective host families. The Matsuuras made me and Nathan dinner. I don’t remember exactly what we had, but it was delicious. Japanese food in general is delicious. I don’t know what I’m going to do when I get back to the United States. I will really strive to eat healthier, consumer more vegetables and rice and less meat, but it’s not going to be the same. And God knows the sushi in the US is going to SUCK compared to Japan. ESPECIALLY the sashimi! xP

Anyway, these last two days we have all been separated by a train stop or two, and I am now in Ofuna with my host family, the Matsuuras. They are SO sweet, and so nice to me. It’s awesome to be with them. Every morning I wake up, and I am greeted by the two of them, and as I go to shower, Mrs. Matsuura makes me breakfast with toast and cold milk. It’s just really a pleasure to be staying with them. Last night for dinner we had sukiyaki, possibly my favorite Japanese dish. I was given a raw egg to dip everything in, which was definitely a different experience. The food was so good though. I wish I had been a bit hungrier, so I could’ve eaten the rest of it. xP Tonight we had traditional style sushi which has become a significant dish within the home. Mrs. Matsuura cooked it PERFECTLY, and we also had sashimi. I don’t know what the fish was, Mr. Matsuura tried to translate it for me, but I’d never heard of it before. *shrug * Oh welll....
Today we visited six temples. It was a really interesting experience. For some reason when I visit temples (Zen or Shinto), I feel some kind of higher presence. It’s completely not the same with Christian or Catholic churches. I had this discussion with Kenji in Kyoto last weekend. I really like the way the Japanese are able to infuse spirituality into their lives. The flow just doesn’t translate in American culture. Religion is so separate, and Americans let it dominate their lives. The Japanese are aware of religion, but don’t let it govern every decision they make. But anyway, it was really cool to see the history, to feel the power of the temples, the architecture, the statues, the plant life. It was really beautiful. At the end of the day, Mr. Matsuura and I had a glass of Matcha green tea at Jomyoji, and took in the beauty of the nature surrounding us. It was a really exhausting day, but a lot of fun.

Tomorrow we go to Machida and the Tokyo area. I’m really excited, but I have to admit a bit nervous. I want to be able to get out of the house and enjoy my time in Tokyo, but I’m also worried about massively screwing up and ending up somewhere I don’t know where I am. I am going to miss the Matsuuras, but I’ll be sure to keep in touch with them. They want me to come back and visit sometime. I think I might! =) Anyway, I’m going to hit the sack, it’s pretty late and I’ve gotta be up early tomorrow to carry tons of crap to and from house to house, station to station. Woot. Peace!

Photos: Together with the Osaka ladies at okonomiyaki, our rainy ass tour of Kamakura, the scenery and tea with Matsuura-san on our temple tour *woot*

INFRUENZA! MAJIDE!?!?

Saturday, May 30, 2009
10:10 PM JST
Matsuura-san’s Home, 大船

Well now that 大阪 is done and over with, I’m not going to dwell on it and try to write a new entry for each day, I’ll just write one big entry with an overview. Haha! Overall, Kansai was a pretty good way to dive right into Japan. I feel like the people were a lot nicer and more straightforward than they are in Tokyo (not to mention a bit better looking), but I was also happy to get some of the, “We hate foreigners” bias out of the way early on.

We got to do a lot of really cool things for our ethnographic research over the course of the week, in spite of the fact that we were staying in what is essentially the Bronx of 大阪. For one, Sam, Kenji and I traveled to 京都 to meet a man named Kanazawa who has worked for NHK as a cameraman for a number of years. He showed us many of the famous temples in 京都, particularly those known for their sweet water. This same day, we were lucky enough to meet and interview Matsumoto-san, the president of the Matsumoto Brewery. The things he told us about Japanese sake were incredible, and it was an overwhelming experience to be talking with someone of such stature, and to be welcomed into his personal space. Wow.

I also had the opportunity to tour the Maruchan Instant Noodle factory near Kobe. Personally, I was very tired, and very nervous to meet these men, because they have such a history with my professor and hold such stature in the business world. Toyo Suisan is a gigantic company, and for us to be invited to visit the factory was a big deal. We were very important guests to them, and they treated us like it. For more than eight hours, we were constantly served coffee, food, desserts, and given presentations about the Maruchan Factory. We got to tour their facilities, and even got to go into a giant icebox that is kept at -50F! Holy shit that was cold! I have never seen so much steam come off of my breath, and I was even warned to cover my ears to make sure they didn’t get frost bitten. Haha, Kenji started coughing and looked like he was keeling over and dying. It was pretty funny. I felt bad for him though. X(

At the end the company men even took us out for dinner and 飲み会. Wow, this was really special, and probably one of the best highlights of this trip for me so far. We went to a gorgeous Japanese restaurant, sat down in a room with all of the company men (and one woman), and were immediately served food and drink. We started with amazing sashimi, and then had shabu shabu with vegetables and slices of Kobe beef (shabu shabu is essentially a pot of boiling water in which you swish the beef or vegetables twice through and then eat them). The company men ate with us, talked with us, and continuously poured more alcohol into our cups than we were able to pour into theirs. This is something that only Japanese businessmen get to experience, and to be here observing it was really awesome. Also, I have a funny story from this night. At one point, the head of the plant came and sat down next to me. He continuously poured drinks for Loretta and I, and kept piling food onto our plate. Essentially, we were being forced to eat and drink by this large Japanese man. At one point, I ate some mochi, choked on it, and almost threw up. The ENTIRE ROOM stopped what it was doing, nervously checked on me to see if I was going to be okay. I try to get out that I am 大丈夫, and what happens? The manager brings his chopsticks up from the shabu shabu pot, shouts, “UDON!” and starts piling fresh udon noodles onto our plates. HAH! I thought I was going to die, but that’s something I will NEVER forget for the rest of my life. Sam also made sure to challenge one of the company men to a drinking contest with me. We shared a shot of warm sake, after which I became known as ざるのジェフ (that means “tank” in Japanese).

One of my favorite parts of Kansai was the nightlife in both 大阪 and 京都. We often made the trip into 道頓堀 to walk the streets, shop, karaoke, and visit the bars with each other. Because of the flu-phobia, everything was basically dead, but it was really nice to sit, have a beer, and talk with my friends. 道頓堀 was pretty fun because we almost missed the train every night (I can recall the first night having to take a cab back, and another night running full of beer trying to catch the last train). I think moreso than 道頓堀, 京都 proved better for nightlife. The one night we did spend out in 京都 was ridiculously fun. Kenji, Loretta, Sam and I started off at a good izakaya near the Evisu the Kyoto store, had a few Moscow meals, a few small appetizers, and then headed over to a really sweet jazz bar called, “Blue Note.” This was unlike anything I have ever experienced. We walked in, and nearly every person in the bar was holding an instrument, waiting to get up front and improv with the “band.” We ordered a drink, sat down, and watched as people got up and played incredible music, while others listened and interacted with them. It was smoky, lit with blue lights, and the ambiance and atmosphere was surreal. It was so, so, SO frickin’ cool. Something like this would NEVER happen in America. Of course, Sam got up and played two songs, and after he was done we booked it out to the train (Surprised? We were trying to make the last one!) and headed back to 大阪.

Everything in Kansai was awesome, from the food to the entertainment to the interviews. I can’t wait to see what 東京 holds for us. Assuming I have a better internet connection, I will be trying to update more frequently from here on out. We’ll see though. I’ve been saying this for a while. I’ll post again though, for sure. =) PEACE!

PS- Hopefully all of you can read the Kanjis, but if you can’t, 大阪 is Osaka, 京都 is Kyoto, 東京 is Tokyo, and 道頓堀 is Douton Bori. Also, the first picture is of the area where we stayed in Osaka, next is me and Loretta with the head of the Maruchan Plant, the second is me and Loretta at the izakaya in Kyoto, and this last picture is the Jazz Bar we went into in Kyoto. If you look closely, you can see a pasty white boy playing guitar. That's Sam. Anyway, see you all! ^^

Monday, May 25, 2009

SO MUCH TO SAY!!!

Tuesday, May 26, 2009
1:40 AM JST
Oasis Hotel, Osaka

Okay, so I've got a lot of new entries to write. I'm about a week behind, in fact, both in the personal blog AND the research journal we're supposed to be keeping that details EVERY event from day to day. Basically, I'm screwed as it stands right now, because it's now Tuesday, and I'm still writing about LAST Thursday. Thankfully I've got some pics. This is what I've been up to in Osaka (sans 道頓堀, I don't really record what happens there...hah!) I'll write about it later! Take a look! =)


Me and Kenji toasting at a hole in the wall Korean restaurant in Korean Town, Osaka!














Kenji, Sam, and I interviewing the President of Matsumoto Sake, Matsumoto-san himself. This was pretty cool!














Everybody standing together outside the Maruchan Noodle plant near Kobe. It's pretty early, so we all look a bit tired. That's okay though, we made it through! =D














Anyway, this is all I can stand to stay awake to post for tonight. I should get some work done tomorrow though. Hope and pray for an update! Haha! PACE! おやすみなさい!

Wandering Souls

Thursday, May 21, 2009
11:15 AM
Shinkansen: 東京から名古屋

So I guess we had a bit of internet last night at the Narita U City Hotel, but I was far too tired to sit downstairs and hook up to the web. The last 24 hours have been absolutely ridiculous. For one, I can’t believe I’m in Japan. All of the nerves that I had yesterday on the plane are gone now, and now it’s mostly just excitement to explore this amazing place.

After landing, I wandered Narita’s Terminal 1 looking from Hamada-sensei. I guess she didn’t expect me to get off as early as I did. Japan has been screening all incoming passengers for symptoms of the Swine flu, so Narita officials boarded the plane upon landing, checked all of our temperatures, and made sure we weren’t carrying the virus. It was pretty tedious, and I wasn’t able to look outside at all, but I figure an airport is an airport, and it’s probably going to be much of the same.

I found Hamada-sensei eventually, and we sent my luggage to Schwerin-san, attempted to exchange my per-diem cash (we couldn’t, the bank was closed), and boarded a JR train to Narita city. Since we were meeting Kenji’s dad for dinner, I ended up just having enough time to leave my bags in the room and change clothes. We went to an Okinawan restaurant. Basically everything I ate and drank was completely new to me, but it was all really cool. I had sashimi for the first time, and it was definitely the best (and freshest) sushi I’ve ever eaten. The platter actually came out with whole parts of the fish on it. The tail and the head were both displayed. I found that the more beer I drank, the easier it was to try new foods. We had a really delicious noodle dish, a seaweed dish, and some tempura as well. Kenji’s dad ended up purchasing a bottle of shochu, which is like a sweeter, smoother version of soju. Hamada-sensei warned me that if I drank too much, I wouldn’t be able to walk back to the hotel. It didn’t help that I was exhausted from the flight.

Probably the highlight of the night was spending time with the restaurant owner and businessmen who were also eating there. A buncha guys from JAL were all eating and drinking together, and became pretty animated towards the end of the meal. It was a lot of fun. The owner is a skilled shamisen player, and at one point took one down off of the wall and played for everybody in the restaurant. He offered me the taiko drum, and essentially forced me to play with him for two or three songs. I thought I did a pretty crappy job, but apparently the salarymen thought I was pretty skilled.

The whole dinner experience was a really awesome way to start off this trip, and I have a feeling it will be one of the more authentic experiences I have while I’m here in Japan. It’s always more fun to truly EXPERIENCE something, and be part of it than to observe it from afar, or take the stance of an outsider.

Anyway, we got up this morning around 5:30 AM. I’m pretty sure the sun rises earlier in Japan than anywhere in the world. Kinda epitomizes the Japanese work ethic, I guess. I wasn’t tired, since I’m still ridiculously jet lagged. I took a quick shower in our tiny-ass bathroom, then made myself some 御茶 before going downstairs to grab complimentary breakfast. The breakfast at the hotel was definitely better than any free breakfast at hotels in the US. We had eggs, miso soup, fresh fruit, fish, rice, etc. It was pretty filling.

I’m now sitting on the bullet train (しんかんせん) heading from Tokyo to Nagoya. It was pretty incredible how hectic the station was. The other thing that really struck me was how well dressed everybody in Tokyo is. Almost every man is wearing a suit and tie, and the women definitely have style. Anyway, I’m pretty exhausted, and I’m getting tired of writing, so I’m going to run. I’ll probably end up writing another entry tonight, however. Hopefully I can get my hands on some internets. It would be nice to check/update Facebook, e-mail, and get this blog started. Until then, these Word entries posted in cluster fashion will have to do. Peace!

Across the Pacific!

Wednesday May 20, 2009
9:00 AM JST
The Pacific Ocean

So I am underway some 30000 feet above the Pacific, and in another eight hours I will be stepping off the plane and into the Tokyo-Narita Airport. The happenings of this morning were pretty interesting, and definitely busy. I hadn’t begun packing as of 6:30 AM, had a coffee meeting with a friend at 9:00, and a haircut at 11:00. I made it on time, though. Boarding the plane was kind of comical, because so many people were being forced to condense their items from three, four, and five bags down to two.

A lot of the crew on board were wearing pig snouts as we boarded, openly mocking the “spread” of “Swine flu.” I personally think the whole thing is a huge load of crock. Three people in the US have died so far, from a virus that kills about 35000 annually. Come on, seriously! Even still, a lot of the passengers on this flight are wearing face masks, as if they were going to do them any good. I’m pretty sure if you’re spending 10 ½ hours on a plane with a sick person breathing the same air as them, you’re probably going to get sick.

I wish all flights were as hospitable as international flights. I have an open seat next to me, and we have already been served snacks and a meal twice. I’ve got to say though, Northwest Air does a really crappy job of making you feel like you’re going to Japan. With the exception of some おちゃ and some Japanese beer, the meals are largely Americanized. I had chicken with mashed potatoes and corn, a salad, Oreo Cookies, a small shrimp cocktail, and a glass of Pepsi (because they wouldn’t serve me beer...apparently you have to be 21 on an American registered aircraft). It’s okay though, the food was better than nothing.

I updated the itinerary recently, and all of my documents are in order to land. Hopefully all goes well and I experience no problems going through customs in Tokyo. I’ll write again as soon as possible. Peace!

Friday, May 22, 2009

Am I on?

So here is the first post! This is my blog for my Japan ethnographic research trip from May to June 2009. I'll work on this later, but for now this is all I'm going to say. We're in Osaka right now, and we're about to head to lunch, so yeah. Pass the word! I'll make a post on here later today! =) PEACE!